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May 2008 ~ Issue Two of BooksMonthly ~ Return to the Cover page

Interview with Marcus Wareing

 

 

Hallo Marcus, thanks for taking the time out to talk to me. First off, I’d like to say how much I enjoyed the book – there are some stunning recipes in it and nothing is beyond the reach of ordinary people. The concept of presenting three ways to use one ingredient is very interesting. Here goes:

GM: At what stage in your life did you decide you wanted to be a chef? Did they teach basic cooking skills at StanleyHigh School, or was it something you decided you wanted to do after you left school?

MW: I took home economics at school.  Wanted to follow my brother who at seven years older than me was already a chef.

GM: You obviously think it’s important for people to cook; yet the modern lifestyle often precludes the opportunity to do anything other than pick up a processed meal, at least on workdays. Do you think processed food is as bad as they say? Now that we’ve got used to it, do you think there will always be a place for processed food in our culture, or do you think more pressure will be heaped on us to give it up? Would you ever sit down to a meal of that kind if you were pushed for time?

MW: I think that meals can be quick without being processed.  Due to the nature of my trade I find it easy to look in the fridge and come up with a quick and easy meal but not everyone can do this so of course there will be a market for processed food.  Processed food isn’t great due to salt content, flavours (restricted in exchange for shelf life) etc and I would love to see everyone cooking for themselves but I am also realistic.  The issue seems to be ability and understanding of food which is lacking although interest is certainly growing which can be seen in restaurants and the amount of information around about food.  I don’t think I would ever eat processed food – even burgers can be home made.  Also I think when I was growing up my mum planned the food for the week and did a weekly shop – I am not sure that happens nowadays so people may not have the fresh items in the fridge.  Shopping after work is not particularly enticing.

GM: Most of the recipes in your new book feature food that is relatively easy to come by; do you have an opinion on whether or not we should have access to foodstuffs all year round that don’t grow naturally in our own country?

MW: we should have access to it absolutely, supermarket shelves would be pretty bare without it.  However flavour and the carbon cost of the journey should be considered.  I do think it is good for us all to try different foods but keeping it seasonal is always best.  Unusual ingredients also cost more so they may not be every day ingredients.

GM: The government has been urging us to eat five portions of fruit and vegetables every day for quite some time now, and this depends on the availability, of course. With questions being asked about air miles and the issue of fair trade, how realistic do you think this is? My wife and I are delighted to be able to eat strawberries every day – do you think it has become our right to expect this, or do you think something will have to change?

MW:  In terms of eating fruit and veg – absolutely should eat as much as possible.  I am sure it is better to eat fresh food – from here or another country rather than eating processed.  For children it may be a way to make them eat fruit as some like soft fruit, others enjoy apples etc.  We eat bananas in our house, throughout the year and our family would not want to live without them – do try and buy fair-trade though.  There are a lot of lovely fruits and vegetables through the year but once we have got used to choice it is hard to take it away!!

GM: Working in the food industry, I’m aware that food manufacturers have to have a steady programme of new product development in order to survive. Is there the same kind of pressure on chefs? Do you feel the need to come up with a new recipe every now and then to keep you in the public eye, or can you rest on your laurels?

MW: I never rest on my laurels but I am not creative for the industry.  It is for my own interest.  The seasons make you come up with the new ideas.  The key is to avoid repeating yourself every year.  At Petrus we are constantly coming up with new ideas and adapting them.

GM: Do you have a signature dish, and if so, what is it?

MW: No – I dont have a signature dish although my style of cooking is probably recognisable – couldn’t describe it though!

GM: You're married with two children – who does the cooking in your house?

MW: three now!  Jake 6, Archie 3 and Jessie 9 months.  I work at least five nights a week so Jane and our nanny Victoria cook during the week, they take it in turns and sit down with the kids so that there is a formal dining experience to learn manners, try new flavours etc. At the weekend Jane and I share the cooking. Since we have young kids we have regular meals at set times (in the past it was unheard of!) - breakfast, lunch and dinner so Jane plans it all in advance but either of us could cook.  A favourite of the family is a roast dinner.

GM: How important to you was winning your heat in the Great British Menu in 2006? Did you get to speak to the Queen afterwards, and did she pass any comment on your egg custard tart?

MW: When going into the competition it did not feel important but as we went on I could feel the momentum and the prestige growing.  Actually cooking for the queen was a huge honour for me.  After the cooking, the four chefs lined up and met the Queen which met it very special.  We spoke but not about food!

GM: You obviously respect and admire some of your fellow “celebrity” chefs, but is there one in particular whose food you have a fondness for?

MW: At the moment I really enjoy the food at Wild Honey which is simple and beautifully executed by a chef who understands fine dining but has managed to tone it down a little, Anthony Demetre.

GM: You now have two Michelin stars, of course. How important is it to have more than one? Two stars means “excellent cooking, worth a detour”. Are you awarded the star for a particular dish or on the general quality of the food available in the restaurant? Is it now your ambition to achieve three star status?

MW: I believe it is for the food on the plate generally and consistency but I am not an inspector!  Of course I would love three – which two star chef wouldn’t?

GM: That’s the cookery questions finished, and I’m sorry for not having more knowledge about Michelin-star cookery; my skills extend to a mean bread and butter pudding, with lots of lemon, and apple cake, but that’s about it! My wife’s the cook, and although we watch Masterchef and Great British Menu, our tastes don’t lie in that direction. But I do think that your latest book has come at exactly the right time, with people being urged to make more time for old-style cookery. Some of the desserts in your book are simply mouthwatering, and we’re tempted to have a go. Would you be happy if more people tried their hand at cookery or would you rather preserve the status quo, with a number of celebrity chefs (I hope you don’t object to that term!) watching while you produce something quite extraordinary, and the rest of us carrying on aspiring to, but never quite doing what you’re doing, and continuing to rely on processed food?

MW: Thank you! No, the more people that learn the better and then we can raise the bar even higher!

GM: What do you do when you’re not cooking? How do you relax? Do you still box, or work out, or do you sit and read a good book, for example?

MW: I spend time with my children.  Do not box anymore but keep meaning to start running again!

GM: Finally, if you were cast adrift on a desert island, what five books would you take with you, books you couldn’t possibly live without? And, of course, what food (that wasn't available to you on the island) would you miss the most?

MW:I would miss bread the most. I do not do a lot of reading, I don’t have the time and my eyes shut when I start to read! But I would like any books  about people that show an experience of life.  I have just read Setting the Table by Danny Meyer – a truly inspiring book about being a restaurateur.  Guidebooks – but pretty useless on a desert island!

GM: Marcus, thanks for answering my questions – I hope your new book does exceptionally well, there’s something in it for everyone, and as always, Dorling Kindersley have made a superb job of printing and producing it. And I hope you get your third Michelin star soon! Best wishes and good luck for the future.

 

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